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This was a great day trip from Gythio. I think it was under two hours to get there. This giant rock has had many people trying to claim it, including the Turks and the Venetians. It was important due to it's strategic location on the sea lanes from Italy to the Black Sea. Most of the buidings that you can still see in the upper town are from the second Venetian invasion. Monemvasia gets its name from mono (single) and emvasia (entry). This road is the only approach.
In Byzantine times, around the 15th century over 40,000 people lived here. There was alot of construction going on as many of the homes here are being restored. It is a popular tourist destination for people from Athens.
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A little mental note if you ever are lucky enough to make it to Monemvasia in the summer. Check out the Mosque that has been converted into the Archaeological Museum. The museum is pleasant enough, but the bonus is AIR CONDITIONING! I lingered over the exhibits so I could cool off after the hike down from upper town.
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The hike to upper town was long, steep and hot. It was great excercise. Remember to bring water! The views were well worth the trek up. David said that this was the best Byzantine fortress in Greece and was never captured during battle. The obvious weakness is food and water. Rain water was caught in cisterns. Nobody has lived in upper town for over 100 years.
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I was impressed with the view. I can see why so many people wanted to lay claim to Monemvasia. I'll bet it was over 90 degrees today. That cool ocean water was looking good. I wonder how long the rain water in cisterns held out up here on the top of the rock?
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As I mentioned before, I love old doors. These doors look like they have seem some action. I guess if they were closed the message was clear. You are not welcome here. The gun turret holes cut out in the wall probably got that message across too.
Tourists are very welcome here. Our guide told us that the older buildings of Monemvasia were falling into decay until it became a popular tourist destination in the 1970's.
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The Byzantine Church of Agia Sophia or holy wisdom was in the upper town. Agia (Holy) Sophia (Wisdom). I read that on March 28, 1821 during the Greek War of Independence the Turks occupied upper town and the Greeks of course wanted Monemvasia back. The Greeks managed to hold back a food supply to the Turks. The Turks held out until August with no supplies to eat or drink. It is said they ate weeds, cats, mice and may have even resorted to cannibilism. I have to give it to the Turks for sheer fortitude. But, the Turks finnaly did surrender to Prince Kantakouzinos.
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As I stated on the last page, I am a sucker for a lighthouse. I saw on a map of Monemvasia that there was a lighthouse beyond the east gate. I trudged out there on my own. All I found was a pile of rubble where the lighthouse should have been. Not a kodak moment.
But, the view of the sea was lovely and I was the only human anywhere around. It was cool because inside the walls there were tons of people. You walk twenty minutes and it is no mans land. It was peaceful.
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